Will I sound completely of the rails when I say that I cried when I landed in Honolulu.. I know I know.. but you have to remember that my last 3 weeks was spent living in a tent all by myself on this secluded faboulous beach on Taveuni island of Fiji. Driving into Honolulu and seeing all the high rised buildings, Mc Donalds and basically all the things I forgot I hated about western civilization.. yes a tear left my eye...
However the immense feeling of sadness was short lived, cos when I woke up in the morning I hit the Waikiki beach surfing... My first time ever catching the same wave as about 100 others, just like the postcards from the 70s.
I wanted to check out the famous North Shore, how was I suppose to know that in summer it was flat as a swimming pool? I must have fallen asleep watching Endless summer... But by some stike of luck I heard there was a swell coming in out of the blue, and jumped on the first bus to the North Shore. The all so famous Pipeline was not breaking but I got to surf Lodge Cabin and a secret spot which only locals knew about. (our guy actually got yelled at for taking us there). The swell was there for a while so I just stayed...
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